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Once again Otto and the Littleun set out on a beer adventure with their beer chums Neil and Valerie. This time to Berlin, a place Neil and Valerie visited in September 2007. Since their first visit there have been some new brewpubs opened, and a couple closed, however, we still managed to visit about 20 brewpubs over our 6 days stay.
First a bit of history /scene setting Berlin is the capital city of Germany and one of the 16 states (Länder) of the Federal Republic of Germany. Berlin is the largest city in Germany and has a population of 4.5 million within its metropolitan area and 3.4 million from 190 countries within the city limits. Berlin is best known for its historical associations as the German capital, for its internationality and tolerance, for its lively nightlife, for its many cafes, clubs, and bars, for its street art, and for its numerous museums, palaces, and other sites of historic interest. Berlin's architecture is quite varied. Although badly damaged in the final years of World War II and broken apart during the Cold War, Berlin has reconstructed itself greatly, especially with the reunification push after the fall of the Berlin Wall in 1989. It is now possible to see representatives of many different historic periods in a short time within the city centre, from a few surviving medieval buildings near Alexanderplatz, to the ultramodern glass and steel structures in Potsdamer Platz. Because of its tumultuous history, Berlin remains a city with many distinctive neighbourhoods
There are as follow; Mitte The historical center of Berlin, the nucleus of the former East Berlin, and the emerging city center. Cafes, restaurants, museums, galleries and clubs are abundant throughout the district, along with many sites of historic interest..
City West (Charlottenburg, Wilmersdorf,Schöneberg, Tiergarten, Schöneberg)
Ku'Damm (short for Kurfürstendamm) is, along with Tauentzienstraße, one of the main shopping streets in former West Berlin, especially for luxury goods. Many great restaurants and hotels are here and also on the side roads. The district also contains the Schloss Charlottenburg, Tiergarten and the Olympic Stadium. Schöneberg is generally a cozy area for aging hippies, young families and homosexuals.
East Central (Friedrichshain, Kreuzberg, Prenzlauer Berg)
Associated with the left wing youth culture, artists and Turkish immigrants, this district is somewhat noisier than most, packed with lots of cafes, bars, clubs and trendy shops, but also with some museums in Kreuzberg near the border to Mitte. These districts are undergoing gentrification as they are popular with students, artists and media professionals alike.
North (Spandau, Reinickendorf, Weißensee,
Pankow, Wedding)
Spandau and Reinickendorf are beautiful old towns
which feel much more spacious than the inner city. Pankow was once synonymous
with the East German government, and the villas the SED leaders inhabited still
exist.
East (Lichtenberg,
Hohenschönhausen, Marzahn, Hellersdorf)
The museum at the site of the 1945 surrender to the Soviet army is of interest,
as well as the former Stasi prison, an essential visit for anyone interested in
East German history. Marzahn-Hellersdorf has a not entirely deserved reputation
for being a vast collection of dull high-rise apartment blocks, as it contains
the Erholungspark Marzahn, a large park where various ethnic styles of garden
design are explored.
South (Steglitz,
Zehlendorf, Tempelhof, Neukölln, Treptow, Köpenick)
South is a mixed bag of different boroughs. Zehlendorf is one of the greenest
and wealthiest districts in Berlin, while Neukölln is one of the poorest of the
city. Köpenick's swaths of forest around Berlin's largest lake, Müggelsee and
the nice old town of Köpenick itself beg to be discovered on bikes and using
the S-Bahn.
Any way enough of that we could go on and on? This is about beer not the low down on the history of Berlin.
After negotiating our way from Schonefeld Airport, on the Strassebahn or S-Bahn and Underground or U-bahn, we checked into our digs, dumped the bags and set off for:
BREW BAKER, S-Bahnbogen (railway arch) 415, Flensburger Straße, Tiergarten, (17:00 -23:00 (16:00 Sat/Sun). (S-Bahn Bellvue S5, S7, S9,) This brew pub is housed in a railway arch, a short walk from S-bahn station Bellevue. Leave the station via the north exit, cross the road, keeping to the left, and it's the 5/6th arch of the railway viaduct. The brew kit is visible in the front window. On our visit there were 3 brews available, the regular Bellevue Pils and two specials, Summer Stout and Rauchbock. This small brew pub produces specials all year round and from the quality and variety we encountered it is obvious they are not afraid to experiment and move beyond the German purity laws with incredible results. Other beers in the portfolio include pumpkin ale, stout potato, ginger honey dream and the classic German styles Alt, Helles and Bock beers. The place has a great atmosphere, excellent food and the service was spot on. Prices were about 2 Euro for 0.3L and 3 Euro for 0.5L. (This seemed to work out as average during our stay). This was definitely one of our favourite spots and we visited it again during the week. Sadly, they closed at the end of December 2010; But have reopened a tap around the corner from the old brewery in the Arminius-Markthalle. They plan to relocate the brewery to an as yet un-named site – we will keep you posted. ![]() ![]() BRAUHAUS SUDSTERN, Hasenheide 6910967 Berlin-Kreuzberg. Opening hours are - Monday-Saturday from 2.00 p.m. Take the U7 to Sudstern Station, on leaving the station head down the dual carriage way (Hasenheide) away from the church, the bar is about 100 meters on your right. The brickwork ambience of this Kreuzberg brewery offers a unique atmosphere and seating for up to 180 people. There is room for 60 on the terrace facing the street, and the beer garden in Volkspark Hasenheide has 140 sunny spots far away from any street noise. The beers on offer were typically German, Dunkel, Pils and Hefeweissen. The brew kit could be viewed through glass panels in the floor as well as in a glass fronted room at the rear end of the pub. If, like us, you arrive before opening time, take a walk further along Hasenheide and about another 100 metres on the left is a "Trinkt Markt" (Off Licence/Drink Market). We ventured in and purchased 4 bottles for 3.09 Euros, including deposit of 0.40 cents. There's a table, with umbrella, where you can stand and drink your beer and then return the bottles for your deposit. The beers we sampled were Bergquell Brauerei Lobau Kirsh Porter (4.2%) and Lousitzer Porter (4.4%), Augustusbrau Lagerbier (5.2%) and Berliner Kindl Schultheiss Pils (5%). ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() BRAUHAUS MITTE Karl-Liebknecht-Str. 13, 10178 Berlin-Mitte. Opening hours - Mon-Fri 1100-2400 Sat-Sun 1000-2300 (S-Bahn Alexanderplatz S3,S5,S6,S7,S9, U-Bahn Alexanderplatz U2, U8) This is just a Short stroll from the Alkopole, exit Alexanderplatz station from the south-west corner and cross Karl-Liebknect Strasse. The pub is directly opposite up a flight of stairs. Recently renamed from Leopolds Brauhaus following a takeover by its near neighbour Lemke, this is a modern brew pub situated on the first floor of the Berlin Carre shopping centre. The semi-circular bar features the brewery. We settled down at one of the few unreserved tables, during a busy lunch time period. (Always check the reserve signs on tables, they usually have a time on them. Very often you can sit at them until the reserve time). The in house beers available were Zwickel, the current seasonal beer and the usual offerings of Dunkel and Helles Pils and Hefeweizen. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() GEORGBRÄU Spreeufer 4 10178 Berlin-Mitte. (S-Bahn Alexanderplatz S3,S5,S6,S7,S9 U-Bahn Alexanderplatz U2, U8) Opening times daily from 1000 Apr-Dec 1200 Jan-Mar. Located on the River Spree at the edge of the Nikolaiviertel (Nickolai Quarter), this brewpub is, not surprisingly, very popular with tourist. It consists of some half dozen rooms, all very eclectic and individual, with seating for up to 400. There is also seating outside on a large terraced area overlooking the river. The beers available were Dunkels and Pils. I thought they were found wanting, did not have another one. ![]() AUGUSTINER AM GENDARMENMARKT Charlottenstrasse. 55 10117 Berlin. (U-Bahn
U2 U6 Stadt mitte or U2 Hausvogteiplatz We arrived early evening and the place was extremely full. We managed to locate a table outside at the front of the building and were well looked after by our Waiter. The beers here are brewed in Munich and we partook of the Dunkel, Edelstoff, Hell and Schnitt. Excellent menu, comprising of traditional German fair and very tasty it was too. If you fancy a little trip out of town get the tram to Köpenick a nice little town with a lake and lovely town hall and one of the smallest brew pubs you will most likely ever go into? see below; | ![]() ![]() ![]() LINDENBRAU, Sony Center Bellvue Strasse 3-5, 10785, Berlin-Tiergarten, which is just off the Potsdamer Platz. Opening Hours - 11:00-01:00 (02:30 Fri/Sat) (U-Bahn Potsdamer Platz 200 m U2 or S-Bahn Potsdamer Platz 200mS1, S2, S25.) At the heart of the impressive Sony Centre, Lindenbrau is spread over three floors, with its main feature being the only sterling silver brew kettle in the world, though what characteristic this adds to the beer is anybody's guess. There is ample seating area both inside and outside under the impressive roof of the Sony Centre. It was relatively quiet during our visit, though it is easy to imagine it being a little tight for space and noisy during busy periods, as the tables are quite close together. The beers on offer were the house brewed beer, Lindenbrau Hofbrau Weisse, plus three beers from the pubs parent company Hofbrauhaus Traunstein: Furstein Pils, 1612 Zwicklbeir and Altbairisch Dunkel. We shared a "metre of beer" between two, which worked out at 2 sampler glasses of each beer in each metre. A great way for everyone to try what's on offer. ![]() ![]() BRAUHAUS IN RIXDORF, Glasower Strasse 27 12051 Berlin-Neukolln. Opening times - 12:00-01:00 Tue-Sat; 10:00-23:00 Sun. (S-Bahn 45, Ring, U8 Hermannstrasse). This is a long-established brewpub, actually located between Delbruck Strasse and Glasower Strasse and accessible from both. This long established brew pub is housed a mansion house which belong to a former factory owner. There are several rooms and the brewery is tucked away at the back. It has a very rustic feel and there is a pleasant beer garden with its own bar. The beers on offer were Rixdofer Hell 5% abv and Dunkel 5.2% abv and Weihenstephan Weiss. Season beers are also available. Next we set off on what turned out to be a wild “brew” chase in search of BRAUWERKSTATT Weichselstrasse 35, 12045 berlin Neukolln. (U Bahn U7 Rathaus Neukolln 1.08 KS-Bahn Berlin Treptower 1.4K Bus Route 171, 194) Most annoying as we walked 2 miles and ended up in the café next door to 35 and partook in a bottle of Rathaus Pils at 5.1% and a piece of cheesecake. The following day, we attempted a little sightseeing in the rain, but eventually gave up and found a great beer bar just of the S-Bahn ALKOPOLE, 1 Alexanderplatz , Mitte, 10178. A small cosy bar, built into an arch at the East End of the Station, right by the U-bahn escalator, handy if you have 15/20 minutes to spare or need to use the loo, which are free if you are partaking of a beer. They have 5 draught beers available and a good selection of bottles. From the tap we sampled the Kulmbacher Brauerei Schwartzbier. The other beers available were Radeberger Pilsner, Kapuziner Weissbier and Dunkel Weiss and Berliner Kindl Pilsner. From the bottle we tried the Kulmbacher Mőnchshof Kellerbier, Kapuziner Kristall Weiss and Dunkel Weiss. There’s a cosy little seating alcove at either side of the central bar which acts as your table and provides a prime position for watching the world go by. ![]() ![]() LEMKES SPEZIALITATEN BRAUEREI, S-Bahnbogen 143 Dircksenstrasse 10178 Berlin Mitte. (S-Bahn Hackescher Markt) Opening times daily from 12.00. Just around the corner from Brauhaus Mitte in one of the railway arches between the Hackescher Markt and Alexanderplatz. As a small craft brewery, Lemke focus on the quality and freshness of their beer. Since opening in 1999 they have brewed over 40 different beers, including many styles that are unusual for Germany. On offer were Lemke Original, Pilsner, Weizen and Zwickel. We opted for the tasting tray so we could sample all 4 beers. ![]() MARCUS BRÄU, Münzstrasse 1-3 10178 Berlin-Mitte. (S-Bahn Alexanderplatz S3,S5,S6,S7,S9 250 m ) Opening times daily 1700 -2400 This is a short walk from Lemke and Mitte and the Alexandraplatz S-Bahn station. A very small brewpub, which is also, known as Brauhaus Alexanderplatz and Microbrauerei Barkowsky. The very small brew plant is actually built into the bar. It claims to be the smallest brew pub in Germany, but then there are about half a dozen others laying claim to this title. Unusually the Pils is available both filtered and unfiltered. We sampled the Pils and the Dunkels. No seasonal available. ![]() ![]() |
SCHLOSSPLATZ BRAUEREI Astrid Rubbert, Schlosssplatz 12555 Berlin-Köpenick. (S-bahn 3 to Köpenick then tram 62 to Schlossplatz).
This is yet another brewpub, which claims to be the smallest one in Germany, and probably is. It looks like a tourist information centre? The brew kit is in one corner, and with inside seating for about 20 people, with a large outside seating area.
The beers on offer were Dunkel and Hell. I don’t think the brewer drinks beer! If he did he would not be drinking this, both were cloudy and had little taste, but the dunkel was like sludge! Other people were drinking though so must have been us four! (Otto's Star Rating "Zero")
RATSKELLER Alt-Köpenick 21 12555 Berlin Open daily from 1100 to 2300. (S-bahn 3 to Köpenick then tram 62 to Schlossplatz).
This is a cellar bar beneath the Köpenick (town hall), where in the spacious vaulted rooms, we partook of a few more well know beers, of a distinctly better quality than at the brew pub and tucked into a hearty traditional German lunch.
| SCHALANDER Banschstrasse 91, 10247 Berlin-Friedrichshain U-Bahn Samariterstrasse U5 S-Bahn Berlin Storkower Strasse Ring S47 S41 Situated right on the corner of Banschstrasse, this is a plain and simply furnished bar, which has a very “European” feel. There is ample seating area outside for those lazy summer afternoons. The beers on offer where dunkel and pils, which were unfiltered, sweet and quite cold, the pils had a distinctive bitter finish. The brewery is a 150 litre kit in stainless steel and is on view as you enter the bar. |
HOPS AND BARLEY Wühlischstraße 22-23, 10245 Berlin-Friedrichshain (U-Bahn U7 Frankfurter Tor , S9, S8,S45, S7 S-Bahn Warschauer Strasse, Tram M13) Opening times Daily 17.00-02.00.
Double shop front and one eclectic room with a central bar and tiled floor and walls. There is a small brew kit in the far right corner, with a larger kit located at the back of the building. The place is usually quite busy and very lively, especially when the football is being shown. The service is excellent with extremely helpful and friendly staff, who were more than willing to talk about the brewery and the brews. On offer during our visit were the Dunkel, Amber, Pils and a Cider. All were excellent.
One of the partners in the Brewery spent time with us and took Otto and Neil on a tour of the brewery. Definitely one for a visit in the future as these guys are not afraid to experiment and you never know what you may find to tempt your taste buds.![]() | ![]() |
BRAUHAUS SPANDAU Neuendorfer Strasse 1, 13585 Berlin-Spandau (U7 Altstadt Spandau S-Bahn Berlin-Spandau S5, S7) Opening Times Mon 1600 to 2400 Tue-Thurs 1100 to 2400 Fri-Sat 1100 till 0100 Sun 1000-2400. This is a large red brick building, with a tower at the entrance, spacious inside with plenty of seating areas surrounding the brew kit and conditioning tanks. A typical, quite traditional German brew pub, with lots of breweriana adorning the walls, comfortable and atmospheric. The brewery produces a monthly special and also has regular festival. The offerings during our visit where Dunkel (the monthly special) and the house brew Havelbrau, this is a bright, bottom-fermented beer with an original gravity of 12.8%. ![]() BRAUEREI ESCHENBRAU Triftstrasse 67, 13353 Berlin Wedding (U-Bahn Leopoldplatz U6, U9) Opening times daily from 1700 (June to August from 1500). Tucked away in the middle of a number of blocks of flats, beware it’s quite easy to miss the entrance. Walk between the blocks into a “beer garden”, the centre of which is dominated by a large oak tree, then head down the steps into a cellar bar. Beers on offer were a pils and a weizen, but the brewery has regular monthly seasonal beers, the current one (Feb 2011) being a Smoked beer. An unusual set up, the place includes a distillery, specialising in Schnapps. The ceilings are aertexed, mish-mash of seating, but cosy and bright, with beer paraphernalia in abundance. | ![]() ![]() BRAUHAUS LEMKE AM SCHLOSS Luisenplatz 1,10585 Berlin (U-Bahn U7 Richard-Wagner-Platz Bus M4 from Zoobahn) Opening times daily from 1100. Another of the Lemke houses, with the same choice of beer, dunkel, pils and a seasonal (Zwcikel). Quite touristy as very near to the Schloss, caters for coach parties so if you happen to hit on a busy period be patient, the food and the beer were very good and thought he waiting staff were extremely busy they were polite and helpful. The brew kit is quite visible and located at the very rear of the seating area. ![]() |
PRIVATBRAUEREI AM ROLLBERG GMBH Werbellinstrasse 50 Berlin Neukolln (U7 Rathhaus Neukolln S8 Boddinstrasse)
Another gem in Berlin’s beer scene, set up in part of the old Kindl brewery, this modern stylish bar provides quality organically brewed beer from top quality locally sourced produce.
The brewer is enthusiastic and gave us an impromptu tour of his small plant, well small compared to the giant copper kettles which appeared to hang in the air with apparent ease, all relics from the previous owners of the building. The brew length of the modern kit is 1,500 litres, where as one of the old copper kettles alone held 11,000 litres.The bar itself is a large spacious room that reflects its environment by incorporating effectively the old copper kettles along with modern art work , metal and chrome features. We had an enjoyable time, the bar staff were friendly and helpful and the beer went down a treat. The beers on offer were Hell, Rot and Weizen.
BRAUHAUS BOHNSDORF Buntzelstraße 89, 12526 Berlin-Bohnsdorf. –SBahn Altglienicke, S-Bahn S9, S45 or S-Bahn Grunau - S 8, S85.
This was our very last brew pub, a short ride on the airport bus from Grunau, get off at the 4th stop (Sausenberger Strasse), cross the road and walk back about 50-100 yds.
The outside is swiss chalet with a modern slant. The inside was typical of the German brewpub, solid pine furnishings, tiled floors and traditional décor.
The food was basic but good value and very tasty. The beers were of a good standard, the usual Hell and Dunkel.
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POTSDAM
BRAUHAUS MEIEREI Am Neuen Garten 10 14469 Potsdam –Nauener Vorstadt
Literally brew house “Dairy”. The concept for the brewery was based on the tradition that originally the dairy farmers were also the local brewers.
This is a very large castellated building on the side of a vast lake with plenty outside space for hot summer days. Inside there is a spacious restaurant area, which was completely reserved when we arrived, a favourite spot for tourist coach parties.
We found a spot at the bar and sampled the beers on offer Hell at 5.2%, Weizen at 5.2% and Sollator Hebstbock at 6.8% which was the current seasonal beer.
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HOFBRAUEREI KRONGUT BORNSTEDT (Brewery in Schloss) Brau-und Brennhaus Ribbeckstrasse 6-7 14469 Potsdam-Bornstedt The Bornstedt in Potsdam is a unique venue and one of the most popular destinations in the region Berlin-Brandenburg. The listed area is part of the UNESCO World Cultural Heritage Sites and fits into the ensemble of the famous castles and gardens of Potsdam. The brew house is part of a former model farm and there has been a “brew house” on the site since 1689, it was also home to Crown Prince Friedrich Wilhelm and his wife Victoria, daughter of Queen Victoria. The main restaurant area is a large banqueting hall with heavy pine furniture, panelled walls, vaulted ceilings and mediaeval chandeliers. The beers on offer were “Bornstedter Buffalo Light and Dark. Both of below average quality. | ![]() |
BRAUMANUFAKTUR Forsthaus Templin Templiner Strasse 102, 14473 Potsdam-Templiner Vorstadt Take Bus 607 hourly service, alight at “Forsthaus Templin” (Right outside the brew pub).
Yes, it is, seemingly, in the middle of nowhere, surround by a chestnut forest, this brew pub is ideal if you want to take a summer hike from the centre of Potsdam to the lakes in the area.
The building is surround by a large beer garden and inside there is space for 100 people in the main bar area, they also have a function room for up to 80 guests. Inside is bright and spacious with, naturally, a forest and hunting theme.
The beers on offer were Pils, Weizen, Dunke and Stangenbier. All very quaffable indeed and with excellent hearty stick to the ribs food, it was a very good end to an enjoyable day.
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So we hope this will be of use to you if you visit Berlin and fancy a beer off the tourist route and with some friendly locals; so until next time Prost.
Big thank you to Valerie for taking extensive notes and Margaret for editing.
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