Hessen

 Any way lets set the scene; Hessen is right in the heart of Germany, and is international and open-minded but also deeply rooted in its heritage and history. Frankfurt is a fast-developing European metropolis, with quite a good beer ramble if you are prepared to travel a little. But just one hour away lies untouched wilderness for example, in the Odenwald, Taunus or Vogelsberg. From Kassel to Darmstadt and from Fulda to Wiesbaden, the cities of Hesse are unique in their cultural offerings and architecture.  Many roads lead through the holiday state of Hessen. The routes are lined with things to see and do, inviting you to visit romantic half-timbered towns and pulsating cities, each with its own special charm.

Our base was just outside of the University town of Darmstadt, which has a larage brewery Darmstadter  which is located opposite the main  railway station and the brewery tap is in front of the brewery. Braustub’l at Gobelstraffe 7, they also own the brew pub – Brauerie Grohe located at Nieder-Ramstadter-Straffe 3. This is a street corner bar just to the south of the city, serving three regular beers and seasonal brews.  Although the best one we found was Rastskeller  a brew pub that is located in the old town on the opposite side of the Marktplaz to the Schloss all unfiltered beers. There is open air seating on the Marktplaz which was very pleasant,  and they provide fleece blankets if you get a little chilly. Inside there is a large circular bar that has tables arrange around it like spokes of a wheel! The brewing coppers are to the right. Typical robust basic food is served and the kitchen is open plan. Dark wooden furniture with white washed walls with “medieval type” artwork. We tried he Pills, Export and the wissen bier all were very good.

 Our next port of call was Michelstadt were we found a very nice surprise! But more of that later.  Located in the Odenwald region of Hessen. This is a peaceful medieval town, embracing a small river among open, flat ground.  This town must be one of the prettiest places in Hessen and also one of the best preserved.  Complete with bright half-timber houses and a largely intact city wall, Michelstadt's charming downtown was colourful, picturesque and historic.  

It also boasts the Rathausbrau that is hidden behind the church tower the Rathaubrau is built straight onto the old city wall and as you go upstairs into the “wintergarten” you can see part of the wall and an additional plus is the snaps distillery that is encased in glass they produce at least 4 types of schnapps, well worth a taste! One worth recommending tasted of cinnamon. 

All the beers are unfiltered we were lucky enough to sample four of the beers the Pills, Marzen, Weizen and my favourite the Schwarzbier, which was very quaffable. The food is above average and he service was very good. We ate in the bier garden that is in a small courtyard that the main street runs through. The brew kit dominates the bar but there is still that olde world feel.

A good night was had by all. Anyway, as we were walking through the town on our way home, nature called and we nipped into a bar and Joerg had a chance meeting with Doctor Music and Ralph Daum. Ralph advised that he had recently opened his own brew pub and invited us over the day after to have a look round and sample some of his brews.  This was a not to be missed opportunity. So we re-organised ourselves and stayed over at Joerg's another night (thanks dude).  

Daum Brau is found on Erbacher Strasse 149. As you walk up the street you come to some large gates, go through these to the rear courtyard and there you will find bier heaven. A small lounge bar  with three round tables outside for drinking when the weather is nice. Inside the bar is one room with eclectic seating and unusual art work on the walls. A real gem of a place. Ralph is a one man band with a little help from his mother . The brewery is located just before the bar and is small and compact. 

This is a real labour  of love. Ralph is really passionate about beer,  and we had a good chat throughout the night, whilst sampling his beers. Available at the time were a Pils and a Weissen both unfiltered and very quaffable. He was planning to do a stout when we talked to him. Which I believe has now been brewed and named “Celtic” stout which Bernie and Joerg have sampled to good reports. Mmmmmm. Music on the evening of our visit was provided form the extensive collection of Doctor Music, thanks.

< Ralph's Brewing Kit

Our next port of call was Bad Homburg Brauhaus (Graf Zeppelin) found on the outskirts of Bad Homburg at Zeppelinstraffe 10. This is a large brewpub on a farm. There is an extensive beer garden perfect for summer. Inside you will find a wood panelled room, in the center of which the brew kit dominates. 

They brew the beer from locally sourced barley.  The place, however, is more geared around food than beer, so don’t expect much! Saying that the beer was better than the food? Worth a stop if in the area but would not make a special journey.

Our final visit of this trip was to the Alt-Oberurseler Brauhaus that is located on the out skirts of Frankfurt, in the old town of Oberursel. You find this classic bar on Ackergasse 13, that is a narrow side street just off the town square.