Halle

The neat market town of Halle is 15km/9miles from Brussels, not far from the linguistic border, on the Senne and on the canal which links Brussels with Charleroi. Blast furnaces, textile, leather and food processing plants make up the industrial base.

Halle is an important place of pilgrimage on account of its wonder-working black Madonna statue, donated by Aleydis of Avesnes, wife of the Duke of Hennegau in 1267.                                                                                    

Each year during the middle of Lent, the town of Halle is the site of Carnival. There are floats, costumes and dancers with celebrations that last for three days. This Carnival is considered to be one of the biggest carnivals in Belgium.

Halle is also the unp roclaimed “capital” of Payottenland (Lambic Land); The Lambic style can trace its roots back over 400 years, and has remained mostly unchanged from its introduction. I have heard the first written lambic recipe is dated 1516, ironically the same year that Reinheitsgebot - the German purity law - went into effect over all of Bavaria. In fact, in ancient Mesopotamia a beer that could be thought of as the "roots" of lambic was brewed 5000 years ago. Sikaru, the premium beer of the day, was brewed from 60% malt, 40% raw wheat, used wild fermentation and was flavored with spices. (for more on the Lambic Style check out my Beer Styles page) Unitll the mid 1090’s the town had its own limbic brewery and gueuze blender Brouwerij Vanderlinden, Brouwerijstraat 2, BE-1500 Halle. Opened: 1893 Closed: 1998 A  Lambik brewery. After the closure of the brewery the brewing of Duivelsbier was moved to Frank Boon, a sad loss.

Well lets at un. We set off on a cold wet morning with Neil and Valerie in search of all things beer and got the train to Halle. The train station in Halle is really impressive and it is only a short walk over the bridge into the town centre. Well the rain was really coming down now so we decided to get a coffee in what looked like a normal cafe? Triangel Brasserij & Restaurant, Basiliekstraat 25.

It is easy to find, once you are in the Grote Markt & stood facing the superb 14th Century Basilica of Saint Martin you head to the right of that, take Basiliekstraat & a short way down this cobbled street the Triangel Brasserie & Restaurant is on your left hand side. 

The outside has a rather modern look; a dark green wooden multi-panel window exterior has several neon signs. Once inside, the interior is Tardis-like, for the Triangel seems to expand ever backwards. A central walkway divides an open area at the front that seats diners left & right. The middle portion hosts the bar area to the left & more comfy seating to the right. At the back more tables & chairs permeate a light open space, which is where the Toilets (which have an intriguing adjoining door) are located - all this is just before a large glass-paned door which in turn provides access to the nicely appointed & manicured rear area garden cum outside drinking terrace. A nice mix of furniture styles & décor lends a classy feel, as does the local Artwork that adorns the walls throughout & which is for sale. 

But they had a really impressive beer menu and in fact had all the “Silly” range of beers. So without further ado Neil and myself ordered a couple (well it had just gone 10am!) Starting with more Silly beers; bottles on offer include the Double Enghien Blond & Bruin in small 25cl bottles, plus the Enghien Noël, Silly Scotch & La Divine which are all served in the larger 33cl glasses, and the beer were severed with little plates of cheese, so as it was still persisting down we decided to go through the full range of Silly beers and fill up on the free cheese.  The Beer menu  peak’s around 50 or so beers. Just the one draft, as the exterior sign depicted, is the Pils from Brasserie Silly. What the Triangel lacks in draft beers it more than makes up for with the bottled list. Brouwerij Boon is well represented here with the Geuze & Kriek, but more impressively the Triangel sells the 8° Duivel 1883 van Halle, a special dark bottle-conditioned brew from Boon that is only available in the Halle locale it seems. Several pseudo-lambics from St. Louis & Mort Subite are not worthy of detail but are here for the sweet-toothed drinkers. 

The Food Menu is varied & includes a seemingly endless variation of snacks & full meals, all high quality. The Desserts on display were simply mouth watering. Service was prompt & courteous.

Cambrinus, Bergensesteenweg 16; Open daily from 10am till close? Just inside the outer ring. This single room cafe has a distinctly Dutch feel. A great specialist menu for the more discerning beer drinker and they do some good food especially the fresh herring. That and a nice sour gueuze takes you mind off the plastic tulips!

De Met, Grote Markt 3. Note some days it only opens at 2pm? But usually its around 11am, (either way you need to spend a full day in Halle so I would visit it in the afternoon / early evening).

Which is on the Grote Markt and, if you are stood in front of the superb Gothic frontage of the 14th Century Basilica of Saint Martin, is just to your right hand side.

The 3 storey building towers over the open expanse of the cobbled Grote Markt.  The whole ground floor has a completely wooden frontage; panelled with many small windows it all lends a court-like appearance to the exterior. The entrance is set to the right but the doorway is set so that it opens inwards to the left. 

Inside is a small, slightly cramped, but warm, inviting and very cosy interior. Bare brick walls, thick tiled floors and the wooden underside of the 1st floor, which forms the ceiling, all provide a very atmospheric Olde Worlde envelope to the single roomed bar. The bar is exquisite, situated at the far right of the bar; it is turn of the Century in style and very Belgium in its appearance. The surface of the bar has a high topped double-tiered white marble design; The back of the bar is all glass and dark wood, the whole feel of the bar area is of a English Victorian Gin Palace. 

A well laid out Beer Menu numbers just below 60 beers. Highlights include several Trappiste brews and traditional lambics, including the rarely seen Dekoninck Gueuze and Dekoninck Kriek from Boon. Other beers from Palm dot the list such as the Steendonk Wheat Beer.

Whilst the food menu was simple and looked basic, the Service however was exceptionally attentive. Beer is all served in the correct Glassware. Each round of beer was served with a small bowl of snacks which always adds a nice quality touch. 

Klein Stadhuis, Grote Market 9; Open daily from 09.30am until close? On the main square in the centre of town so really easy to find. An old style town tavern that has one small square room, that is panelled in Burgundy wood. The seating is of the bench type with white marble table and old mirrors on the walls. A locals bar were people come to talk over a couple of glasses of Dekonick Geuze.

Another traditional cafe bar is the Sleutel, Grote Market 30, Open daily from 09.30am until close? A corner bar htat is well worth a visit to partake of the Girardin Gueuze and Kriek beers. There is a nice touch to the place with the blue Delft style tiling. But the bar area is formica with red leatherette with a key (Du:sleutel) on the front of it. Off the main room to the side is a small games room. Also if it’s sunny (did I mention that we had Rain that day) there is a small terrace at the front so you can site and people watch in the historic old square.

Rust op Den Berg, Nijvelsessteenweg 829; Open Sunday 10am and Saturday from 12.30pm, then from 6pm most other days, Closes late. Located on the outskirts of town but probably the most authentic Lambic cafe, with a great atmosphere. There are no draught beers Just a really great selection of bottled beers. One small squre room with wooden seating around the edges. A nice old tiled floor. It gets very busy with locals on a Sunday morning were the sought after beer of choice is Hanssens Oude Gueuze.

Well that’s Halle for you and if you go there for a day or two I hope this rough guide to the best bars will be of use to you? (Updates most welcome by email) so as the sun sinks over Halle 'Op uw gezondheid Otto.

BELGIUM

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